The Italians visit Paris! (22 - 25 September 2011)

When I arrived in Paris two years ago, it was love at first sight. I was intensely passionate about this city for at least my first year here, exploring whenever I could find the time, visiting countless museums, and filling my camera with a million beautiful shots of beautiful Paris. But, like all love affairs, the honeymoon phase eventually wore off to give way to the practicalities of everyday life. Museums and sightseeing were replaced with home tasks, battling the hour-long commute to work every day, and nights out with friends to old familiar haunts, whilst sightseeing was reserved for those ever-frequent sojourns away from Paris. In fact, I don't think I've been to a Parisian museum once this year, and my camera lay completely untouched until trip #4 to Australia at the end of April (more on that later).

So it was a real treat last weekend when, after *only* two years of politely suggesting nagging, the Italians finally came to visit me! They arrived on Thursday afternoon, and the first order of business (after having managed -- in a moment of true genius -- to catch the metro in the wrong direction on the way back to my apartment) was lunch. I opted to take them to a restaurant nearby for what I firmly believe are the best crêpes in Paris. Des Crêpes et des Cailles is located in the Butte aux Cailles region of Paris' 13th Arrondissement, a small, quaint quarter characterised by narrow, cobbled streets and numerous bars and restaurants. This particular crêperie is a tiny, family-owned establishment offering a fantastic range of salty and sweet crêpes, and authentic Breton cider, all very reasonably priced. For take-away or a sit-down meal, this is my absolute first choice for crêpes, and its proximity to chez moi is the icing on the cake.

We then embarked on our first sightseeing mission...

The Italians are two of the most indefatigable travellers I have ever encountered, and they were determined to see *all* of Paris (and Versailles) during their 3 and a half day visit. I was determined to oblige, as far as I could. We caught the metro to Barbès-Rochechouart in the Montmartre region at the northern end of the city. This area is home to the Moulin Rouge, as well as the (in)famous Boulevard de Clichy (the red light district, or, as described by Eddie Izzard at a recent gig in Paris: "Boulevard de Sex"). A short waddle up the Butte de Montmartre leads you to one of the more iconic parts of Paris:

Sacre Cœur -- the symbol of Montmartre

 
This is a lovely, but very touristy, region of the city. Place du Tertre is home to numerous cafés as well as an art market, where local artists aim to sell their wares. An abundance of street performers and street artists will greet you when you arrive, and multiple offers to draw your portrait are almost guaranteed. The stunning Basilique de Sacre Cœur is well worth a trip inside (and has free entry), and -- though I have yet to do this -- it is possible to visit the crypt and climb the towers. Given that the views of Paris from the Butte are fairly spectacular, I imagine a trip up the tower is absolutely worth the effort (and is definitely on my bucket list). The inside of the church does not at all disappoint, and it is a wonderful example of Romano-Byzantine architecture. Another worthwhile stop on the butte (particularly if you're into surrealist art) is the Espace Dalí, a small basement museum hosting an unusual collection of sculptures, sketches, jewellery and paintings that don't normally fall under the banner of his "greatest hits", so to speak.

Paris, viewed from the steps of Sacre Cœur

We then walked down the front of the Butte, which provides the most direct (and stunning) view of the Basilique, and then wandered southwest towards the Paroisse de la Madeleine and the Opéra Palais Garnier. The Madeleine church is unique in design, being Neo-classical in style and built as a monument to Napoleon's armies in the early 19th century. It's also one of the only churches I've visited that's rectangular in shape, rather than cross-shaped. The outside of the building is lined with large pillars, under which are found sculptures of a host of saints. A few blocks away lies the Opéra Palais Garnier, one of Paris' -- if I might be so bold as to say -- most beautiful buildings. Its name is rather misleading, as it currently runs ballets exclusively, with operas being hosted at the Opéra Bastille. It is possible to visit inside without attending a ballet, but not on rehearsal days, and we got there a smidge too late to get in. Again, on my bucket list!

Sacre Cœur, as viewed from the stairs leading down the Butte

A short walk to the south is Place de la Concorde, which is located at the western end of the Tuileries Gardens, and marks the start of the famous Champs Elysées. Formerly the location of the guillotine which famously beheaded Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette, it is, apparently, the largest square in Paris, and plays host to a giant (and authentic) Egyptian obelisk from the time of Ramses II. It is one of two gifted by the Egyptians to the French in 1829, and is a stunning 3300 years old. It also once marked the entrance to the Luxor Temple in Egypt.

Day 1 with the Italians ended with a walk through the Tuileries gardens to the Louvre, and then onward to the Saint Michel/Notre Dame area of town for dinner. In the narrow, windy streets on the southern side of the river (aka Rive Gauche), one finds seemingly endless strings of restaurants offering a range of French cuisine, with 3 course menus starting around 10 euros, a bargain by any standards, and especially so when you remember that you're in one of the most expensive cities in Europe.

The Italians left me to work (and recuperate) on Friday while they went to explore Versailles, and returned in the evening for a picnic in the Champ de Mars: a large park between the base of the Eiffel Tower and the École Militaire -- followed by a trip up the Tower itself. Pro-tip: if you plan to go up the Eiffel Tower, book your tickets online through their website. The alternative is standing in a very long queue for tickets, particularly when the weather is nice. This was, believe it or not, my first ever trip up the tower, and I was truly blown away. There are three levels, and we started at the top and worked our way down. Whilst the concentration of people on the top level can be somewhat annoying, the views on offer entirely make up for it. There's no way that I could find adequate adjectives for this particular spectacle, so I'll let the photos below speak for themselves (click for larger views).

Looking north and east

Looking south

The view of Hôtel des Invalides

The Champ de Mars

Saturday was my last day of touring with the Italians, and we confined ourselves to l'Ile de la Cité and surrounding areas to the north and east. We started with a visit to the Cathédrale Notre Dame de Paris, another iconic Parisian landmark, and a truly spectacular example of gothic architecture. The stained glass inside, particularly the large roses on either side of the central branch of the church, are spectacular. Impressively, at the start of the second world war, the stained glass at Notre Dame was dismantled piece by piece and stored for protection. It is possible to climb the bell towers (the famous haunting grounds of Quasimodo in the Hunchback of Notre Dame), but -- particularly on sunny days -- there's always an immense queue, so I have yet to ascend the monument.

One of two stained glass roses

Notre Dame

If you're impressed with the stained glass at Notre Dame, then l'Église de Sainte-Chappelle is definitely worth a visit. Built in the early/mid 13th century, this spectacle is located on the Ile de la Cité, in the heart of the old royal palace. No longer used as a church, entrance to this sight is not free, but -- though small -- I found it most worthy of the time and expense. The 30-metre high stained glass windows in the upper chapel are definitely worth more than a passing glance. You can also purchase a combination ticket that will give you access to the Conciergerie, which is where Marie Antoinette (along with many others) was imprisoned prior to her execution.

Stained glass in Sainte-Chappelle

The entrance hall of the Conciergerie

After the Conciergerie, we wandered north past the ever-beautiful Hôtel de Ville, in the heart of the city, and on to the Pompidou centre, the home of modern art in Paris, and often considered to be an eyesore in stark contrast to the rest of Paris. While the architecture of the building is, frankly, bizarre, there's an air about this part of the city that I absolutely love. It's as if you can feel the innovation and creativity in the air, and while I'm not a huge fan of modern art, I've enjoyed both my visits to the interior, and plan to return again soon for an Edvard Munch exhibition.

Fountains, with the Centre Pompidou in the background

In an art gallery in Place des Vosges

Lastly, we made our way through the Marais in the 3rd and 4th Arrondissements to Place des Vosges, an lovely, quaint square hosting a number of art galleries, jewellery shops, cafés and restaurants. It is in this square that Victor Hugo made his home, and it's possible (and free) to visit his former residence.

Believe it or not, the Italians didn't stop there, but my adventures with them did. I am looking forward to them visiting again, but my feet are still recovering, so I do sort of hope they'll wait a little bit! In the meantime, I'll start planning a trip to Venice to visit them. It's always lovely to see old friends, but this visit had the added bonus that it reminded me of just how much I love this city -- my city -- and how fortunate I feel to be sticking around here for another few years!